what to buy before i assemble my ender 3

I've been interested in 3D press for years, just getting ane simply seemed out of my accomplish. My choices generally vicious into one of two camps: Either I would need to spend as much equally a high-end laptop, or would need to expense a sizable amount of time and money to build ane myself from parts. When consumer 3D printers arrived, they were often limited devices which were more novelty than workhorse.

Then I discovered the Ender 3 Pro. While a sub-$300 printer, it'south a capable machine. The resolution is fine plenty for my purposes, and requires only a few hours of fourth dimension to assemble. Dissimilar many novelty printers, this one could be readily modded for enhanced abilities, and requires no defended host calculator or phone app to control.

Nevertheless, though, you have to build it. Well, most of information technology.

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Enquiry and unboxing

Before buying, I decided to do a little research and watch some videos on how to assemble the Ender 3 Pro. Doing this research was role of my conclusion procedure, since the assembly process had to meet The HAC metric, otherwise I'd likely never get effectually to building the damn thing.

Fortunately, this printer comes partially assembled. The critical components, controller board, heating bed -- basically the entire lesser half of the printer -- shipped as one piece. Fifty-fifty better, all the necessary tools are included in the box as well. While they aren't high quality tools, they are amend than what you'd become with flat-pack article of furniture. This makes the process of setting up the printer much less intimidating. The associates videos I watched also pointed out some pitfalls and confusing parts of the provided instructions.

As ever, when you run into difficulties, you'd likely not to be the first or only person. Search for solutions!

I ordered the Ender three Pro online as my local tech store had sold out by the time I made the decision to buy. The box was surprisingly heavy given it'due south size. On opening, yous see the components are well and tightly packed with plenty of foam padding throughout.

The box is organized into two layers. Removing the protective foam on the elevation reveals the bottom half of the printer, already assembled. Structurally, it's made of several pieces of extruded aluminum. There are iii bars running from front to back, and a center piece which runs left to correct, connecting it all together. The center bar is the longest, and holds the motor and belt assembly which makes up the Enter 3 Pro's Y-centrality. The printer bed slides along this construction. Parts of the X-centrality gantry likewise are bachelor in this layer of the box, likewise every bit the control board. Once removed, the bottom layer has more gantry parts, the Z-axis, tools, and other sundries.

Given how bang-up everything is packed in the box, it'southward best not to inspect information technology until you're ready for associates. Especially since the cream can exist inviting for pets to sit and slumber on...

Preparing the base

Ane tip I picked up from the assembly videos I institute online was ensure the base was lying flat. Sometimes, the aluminum extrusions can twist on the production line allowing the printer to exist just resting on three points instead of four. In uncorrected, it could result in printing artifacts such every bit layer shifts or a failed impress altogether.

Fortunately, correcting the trouble at this stage of associates is really easy! Along each side of the base, there are four bolts which connect the cross member to the rest of the bottom half. Identify the printer lesser on a apartment reference surface. If you're an engineer, you'd similar a slice of machined stone or even a thick slice of plate glass for the most precision. Actually, though, whatever flat table would practise.

Using one of the included hex keys, loosen the bolts. Loosen, not remove! Nosotros don't need to remove them, we only need them to give us just a piffling flake of wiggle room. Then, tap each corner of the printer lesser, listening and feeling for it to shift.

In one case you lot're certain the printer bottom has "settled", tighten the bolts until they're sung.

Snug. Not tight.

The aluminum extrusions which make up the printer's frame are non indestructible. If you over-tighten a bolt, you risk breaking the threading, or stripping the commodities hole. This would make it useless. Tighten until it no longer turns hands, then tighten it just a footling chip more.

With that finished, you should repeat the tap test i more fourth dimension simply to be certain. Sometimes the action of turning a bolt can actually crusade the entire matter to twist, which is much more than likely when using power tools or applying a lot of force when tightening.

The Z-axis

Next, we need to put on the Z-centrality track. These parts give the 3D printer its 3D by providing the upward-and-down axis. Like the residuum of the printer, these are fabricated of aluminum extrusions, and these two are the longest. Also, one is slightly different than the other and has additional commodities holes for the power supply. Advisedly follow the instructions Ender provided in the box.

The bottom half of the printer likewise has a dangling bit connected to information technology via a set of cabling and tubes. This is the extruder assembly, it has a subclass and a heated nozzle (a hot cease) which heats the plastic and deposits information technology while press. While this assembly isn't fragile, go on it in mind equally you attach the rails. Yous wouldn't desire information technology to fall off the edge of the table and damage the tubing or cabling.

The rails actually attach to the printer from the bottom. You need to place the printer on its side, then thread the bolt up through the lesser one-half into the runway. The first one is trickier, so y'all may need someone to hold the printer bottom for you while you get information technology fastened. The next one is easier, since you lot can apply the already fastened Z-axis runway as a stabilizer.

Again, be very conscientious tightening these downward as you don't want to strip out the threads.

The power supply

The power supply is a silver box with an obvious switch and connector with which to attach the ability lead. Prior to installation, be sure to cheque the pocket-sized, red selection switch. If you're in Northward America, Japan, or one of several countries which use 120V, y'all may need to switch the selector appropriately. The power supply is non intelligent enough to do this automatically.

The ability supply is fairly easy to install, simply the treads in the supply's case are even more delicate than that of the rail. Be very, very careful not to strip these.

With that washed, we tin attach the control screen for the printer. Two modest bolts affix it to the right side of the printer bottom. In that location's no need to worry nearly wiring in the connector now, that'll be one of the final things nosotros exercise. It is important to note, however the circuit board of the display is exposed hither, so be careful non to damage information technology. A common modification is to impress a comprehend to protect this component.

Earlier moving on, we besides need to install the Z-axis limit switch. This tiny switch is pressed when the gantry descends downwardly to the lesser of the available travel, and instructs the printer to terminate advancing the Z-Centrality motor. Unlike the other parts, this 1 bolts to the tracks inside the aluminum extrusions using T-nuts. These are rectangular little cuts which follow the shape of the extrusion track. They can exist a little frustrating at first, as you need to become the longer side to rest under the lip of the tracks. The switch itself is as well very delicate and probable to get snagged. You may want to put a slice of masking tape over it if you're worried near snagging it.

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The hardest function

The adjacent office of the assembly is the hardest: the X-axis gantry. This part rides upwardly and downwardly the Z-axis rails on the threaded rod. This part is the most circuitous part of the build as it requires the virtually pieces you need to assemble. It's also very, very easy to use the wrong one of the ii remaining aluminum extrusions, or put it together backwards or even upside down. While you can follow the provided instructions here, you may want to review some assembly videos, or find community produced associates instructions to exist sure.

There are three parts to the gantry:

A roller bracket
The dual motor assembly
and the extruder associates

Allow's start with the dual motor assembly. One motor on this drives a belt which moves the extruder back and forth on the gantry. The other motor has a compression roller which grabs the plastic filament and drives information technology into the extruder via a bowden tube. This is important to notation every bit bowden tube printers accept some limitations, notably, they're not good at press flexible material. We install the flange which holds the tube in identify, and so bolt the associates to the gantry. This latter task is tricky, equally you demand position the bolt on the inside of the 2 plates, inserting the hex key through come convenient holes to reach the bolts.

I mistakenly put on the roller subclass next, as I was eager to go to something like shooting fish in a barrel. The trouble is, you can't accept the roller bracket on and mount the extruder assembly. The extruder has to become on get-go. Given the extruder is already attached to the printer, this increases the awkwardness of working on the gantry. It's frustrating, but we're so close!

Adding the gantry

Once I removed the roller plate I was able to slide on the extruder assembly. Once I was certain that was all oriented correctly, I reattached the rollers.

With the gantry finished, I jumped back in the instructions and added the Z-centrality motor and threaded rod. Like the limit switch, information technology as well installs using a bracket and T-nuts. Avoid tightening these downwards for the moment. Remove the threaded rod from the protective -- and oily -- sleeve it was shipped in and identify it in the coupler. Leave this slightly loose for the moment too. If you lot find it too loose, have a friend or use a piece of tape to hold it in place for the next step.

Now, slide the gantry over the Z-axis rails, threading it through the rod at the aforementioned time. You lot can have the Z-axis motor rotate manually with a fiddling bit of endeavor. As long every bit you don't strength it, y'all won't impairment the motor. I found it best to move the gantry down half-way earlier tightening downward the Z-axis motor and rod. I then moved the gantry upward and downward a scrap to be sure it wouldn't bind at whatever point in the travel.

Past at present you probably have figured out one of the tricks to getting all of this to work and exist aligned properly. We don't e'er try to strength the machine as we assemble information technology. We permit gravity and the tension between the components to the piece of work for usa. All we do is tighten it down at an opportune fourth dimension in assembly, and make sure it stays that mode throughout.

At this point, I also added the belt tensioner. It's a little subclass with a toothed roller which slides into the end of the gantry. It's on the same side of the machine as the roller plate, just facing the front, not the back. Some instructions suggest doing this prior to placing information technology on the automobile, just I found it easier on the machine, as the rod and Z-centrality motor held it in place. Insert the tensioner to the gantry but practice not tighten it downwards yet. Thread in the chugalug, with the toothed side facing the inside of the gantry. This part is rather catchy, and you may feel you're stretching the chugalug too much. One seated, pull on the tensioner to make the belt taught, then tighten downwards the bolts. Then, manually move the extruder head back and forth on the gurney to ensure that it travels every bit expected.

Topping and alignment

It'south starting to look like a printer now! What's left is to add the top piece. It bolts in from the top down. By now you should be familiar with the mantra of snug not tight, and not all the way yet. And you're right! Here is where we demand to align the auto.

Identify the remaining extrusion on the top and bolt it downward shy of snug. Y'all may cull to also attach the filament roller to the top using T-nuts at this point. Information technology's not structural, and so this tin be done at present or later.

This was the just time I felt I needed a tool not provided out of the box. A small machinist'due south foursquare or L-ruler can be used to determine of the two Z-axis rails are parallel. If you lot don't take either, a slice of paper may be used, but the tools are far easier. Place the square into each corner, and so compare them against a light. If the rail aren't parallel, you'll see a gap where the light shines through. Typically, one side volition have a gap in the corner, the other will have one along ane of the edges.

Strength isn't necessary here. A calorie-free tap with your palm will likely do all the alignment you need. Compare it against the square once again. If there are no gaps, tighten downward the bolts on the peak extrusion. This is too the perfect fourth dimension to check all the other bolts and make sure they're all tightened down well.

The top left of the machine, this time there are no gaps between the rails and the square.

And then finally...

The concluding step is to wire everything together. While there are a lot of wires, they are all helpfully labeled and utilize jacks and sockets. Match the letters together, and seat the connectors. The display and the power connector accept different grade factors from the remainder, so information technology's impossible to go them in the wrong places. If yous haven't connected the bowden tube rom the extruder and the dual motor assembly all the same, do and so now, identify the retaining clips, and tug on them gently to make sure the tube is held fast. Insert the provided memory card into the slot on the front of the machine, pin-side upwardly.

Then, at concluding, the near satisfying moment of the entire build: pulling off the plastic from the screen.

Leveling the bed

At this point, the construction of the printer is washed! Yous might remember that we can just flip the printer on, load some filament, and start a print, but there's another procedure we need to do get-go. Despite the fact the print bed was part of the pre-assembled part of the printer, it doesn't mean that it's aligned to the the extruder. Subsequently all, we assembled the Z-centrality, gurney, and all the components from that point up. Despite our best efforts, information technology'due south unlikely the printer bed maintains the same distance from the hot end for the full Ten and Y of the possible travel. Furthermore, fourth dimension and operation tin innovate twist of the bed with respect to the hot end. 3D printer manufacturers know this, and make the print bed adjustable.

The act of aligning the bed for the total Ten/Y travel of the hot end is called leveling the bed, or just leveling. Some expensive printers do this automatically, while others, like the Ender, need to be leveled manually. Under each corner of the bed is a plastic thumbwheel helpfully labeled "Upwardly" and "Downward". Merely...how do nosotros know we're level with respect to the hot end? Do we demand another tool? Well, yes. You lot practice.

A piece of paper. Yes, really. That's it.

Here's the process:

Motion all the thumbwheels in the direction indicated past "DOWN" 1 to ii full rotations.
Turn the printer on.
Nether Prepare, select Automobile Home.
Attempt to skid the newspaper under the hot-stop. If it doesn't fit, motion the thumbwheel in the management indicated by "Downwardly".
Once the paper is nether the hot-terminate, motility information technology back and along. Move the thumbwheel "UP" until you feel it being caught by the nozzle.
Nether Prepare > Move Centrality, motility the 10 and/or Y axis to the next corner, and echo the paper test. Proceed until all corners are leveled.

Later a while, you may find the paper clumsy, or inaccurate. If yous're looking for an upgrade, a practiced tool to get is a feeler approximate, which replaces the newspaper with a precisely sized piece of metal. Typically, you tin can find them online or at some hardware and automotive stores for under $10. In practice, information technology works the same fashion as the piece of paper. select the thickness, pull it out of the handle, and try to slip the blade under the hot end.

Loading the filament

With the bed level, we can load the filament into the printer. This too is a little procedure. While yous tin can utilise the provided sample amount of filament that came with the printer, I highly recommend getting a full roll of PLA filament instead. Yous'll be able to print more, and the amount of sample filament is barely enough to impress anything anyways.

Place the filament roll on the holder we installed at the peak of the printer.
Using the side cutters, cut the end of the filament at an bending, giving the leading border of the filament a sharp betoken.
On the printer'south menu, go to Set > Move Axis, and move the Z-axis up and away from the print bed. It need non be much, simply it should be enough to go your mitt under there.
On the dual motor assembly, Locate the tiny little inlet hole on the left side.
On the top of the extruder motor, pinch the plastic handle on the top. This releases the pinch roller so nosotros tin can slide in the filament.
Slide in the filament. It tin be a little bit of a challenge to thread it through the 2d inlet hole which leads to the bowden tube. Be patient and it will eventually go in.
Once in the tube, keep pushing in filament until it stops.
On the printer'south menu, go to Prepare > Preheat your_filament_type . This is necessary as the extruder motor will not operate until the hot-end is heated up as a safe feature.
Nether Prepare > Move Centrality, move the extruder axis (yeah, it's weird) until the filament comes out of the hot end.
When it does, dorsum up the extrusion axis i notch. This is called retraction.
Articulate away the extruded plastic with your fingers, and you're set up to print!

Making that offset print

With the bed leveled and the filament loaded, we're prepare to print. Thankfully, Ender included a few sample prints on the included SD card. The names are CAT, DOG, and PIG, but hither's what they really are:

True cat is a maneki neko, a proficient luck cat USians may recognize from Chinese and Japanese restaurants. It's a good demonstration of texture.
PIG is a small piggy banking concern. This is a good accuracy test equally it'southward hollow and the walls of the print are quite thin.
DOG is...a canis familiaris. It'due south done in a cute, Pixar-similar manner, and is designed to be a practiced all-around test of the printer.

The dog model also takes the least time to print, so permit's use that one. There are actually several more than models on the SD Card, but those require a process called slicing which we'll cover in a future post.

To impress:

On the printer'southward card, select Print from Tf menu.
Locate the desired model, and press downwardly to select.

Summary

Assembling the Ender three Pro takes several hours and can be achieved in an afternoon. While about everything you need is provided out of the box, a full roll of filament, and pocket-sized machinist's square can make things much easier and more accurate. If you want to get a feeler gauge as well, go alee, only I constitute developing a experience for the machine first using sheets of newspaper added considerable insight.

In one case assembled, the printer is capable of delivering quality prints for a diversity of sizes. Many of the printer'due south issues or lack of features can be corrected for using easily bachelor mods, making this printer a adept investment for the coin. I've already found uses for prints beyond mere objet d'art. Small tools, jigs, and holding devices tin be readily printed instead of purchased.

We're but getting started on our 3D printing journey. Next time we'll explore how to download models and impress them out using free and open source software.

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Source: https://deninet.com/blog/2020/07/25/assembling-ender-3-pro-3d-printer